In the picturesque town of Yoichi, Japan, a climate conundrum unfolds, leaving wine enthusiasts and farmers alike in a state of uncertainty. A town once blessed by the changing climate now faces a new challenge: the weather's unpredictability.
[1/8] Imagine a place where the delicate Pinot Noir grape, once a rarity, has flourished thanks to gradually rising temperatures. This is the story of Yoichi, a small town on Japan's northernmost island, Hokkaido. The Hirotsu family, among others, has cultivated Pinot Noir grapes at the Hirotsu Vineyard, alongside Kerner, Zweigelt Rebe, and Bacchus, for the esteemed Grande Polaire wines. But there's a catch.
The Climate's Double-Edged Sword:
As temperatures continue to rise, Yoichi's future as a Pinot Noir haven is uncertain. This grape, known for its finicky nature, thrives in cool to temperate climates. But the very climate change that enabled its cultivation in Yoichi might now threaten its existence there. And the farmers are worried.
The Rise of Yoichi's Pinot Noir:
Yoichi's journey into the spotlight began with its renowned Nikka Whisky. However, it was the 2017 Nana-Tsu-Mori Pinot Noir from Domaine Takahiko that catapulted the town onto the global wine stage. This wine, once a bargain at $30, now fetches a staggering $560 from resellers in Japan. With around 20 wineries and 70 vineyards, Yoichi has become a force to be reckoned with in the wine world.
The Climate's Twist:
But here's where it gets controversial. The very climate that nurtured Yoichi's success might be its undoing. Recent rapid temperature increases and potential changes in rainfall during the harvesting season could make growing Pinot Noir grapes in Yoichi a challenge. Farmers fear that the town's newfound reputation may be short-lived.
A Roller Coaster Ride:
Takahiko Soga, owner of Domaine Takahiko, describes the situation as a 'roller coaster.' Initially, Yoichi's temperatures resembled France's Alsace region, but they soon reached Burgundy levels, known for producing exceptional Pinot Noirs. And this year, temperatures soared even higher, nearing Loire or Bordeaux levels.
The Pinot Noir's Sensitivity:
Pinot Noir grapes are notoriously sensitive. Their thin skin and tight clusters make them susceptible to even slight changes in sunlight and rainfall. As temperatures rise, the grapes may ripen too quickly, resulting in higher sugar and lower acid levels, compromising the wine's quality.
Nature's Intruders:
Adding to the farmers' woes, a surge in bird populations, attributed to climate change, has become a significant concern. With reduced sources of nuts and seeds in nearby mountains, birds are turning to vineyards for sustenance. The constant sound of firecrackers, used to scare them away, has become a familiar backdrop in Yoichi.
Seeking Solutions:
To address these challenges, Yoichi Mayor Keisuke Saito formed a 'wine accord' with the Pinot Noir commune Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy. This partnership aims to exchange knowledge on production methods, especially in coping with climate change. As a short-term solution, Domaine Takahiko has constructed an underground cellar to control temperature and humidity for 100 barrels.
A Changing Future:
The farmers of Yoichi are considering a bold move: experimenting with new grape varieties. Soga suggests that Merlot or Syrah might be the town's future, as Pinot Noir's suitability becomes questionable. But this shift raises questions about tradition, taste, and the very identity of Yoichi's wine culture.
As Yoichi grapples with its climate-induced challenges, one can't help but wonder: Is this a cautionary tale of the delicate balance between nature and human endeavor? And what does the future hold for this town's unique wine heritage?
Note: All currency conversions are approximate and provided for context.
